There is a song from one old Hindi movie “Bachpan Har Gam Se Begaana Hota Hai.” I used to hear that song a lot when I was a kid but never understood that what it really meant until I realized that I am not a kid anymore and the childhood will never come back. I have kept the child active and alive in me but sadly, I would never be able to go back in time. What I am left with is now recalling and recollecting my childhood memories.
It is an irony that when I was a child, I would always feel that “when I will grow up..” for everything. I used to feel disadvantageous on everything because of being child. Ask any child and he would say that he wants to grow up fast. Ask any adult and he would say that what fun it used to be when they were young kids- no worries but only play and have fun! It is a never-ending desire for the other! When I was young, I used to hate school and also hated that we were always accommodated in anything. We never used to have our own standing for anything. Others decided our preferences. The desire to have our own identity or a say on our decision making would always make me feel that when would I grow up. Let me recount my old days in a gradual fashion.
Hariharpur
Of all my childhood days, the most memorable are the ones, which I spent in my mother’s village Hariharpur. I can never forget the time spent in the gachhee (mango orchard) and in the khets (farm fields). Whenever I dream of my childhood, invariably memories of those days will occupy my mind. I had always longed for the vacation time at Hariharpur but we did not go to the village very often. The longest we lived there was during Bharti Mausi’s(Mother’s younger sister) marriage. That was during the summer of 1977.
Train journey back in those days
Hariharpur had a unique setup of an ideal village back in those days. A typical small railway station called Mohammedpur beside a small market and Kamala River used to be the last point for train. But reaching to that station was not as easy as appears now. It would be an overnight train journey to reach Barauni Junction and from there we would change the train to Narkatiaganj on chhotee line (small track). The train had unlimited possibilities of factors to surprise anyone. To begin with, the starting time for journey would always be anyone’s guess! The trains would be known by the timing for its start (or the time it crossed Mohammedpur junction, not sure now) and accordingly it would be called as naubajiya, ekbajiya, and theenbajiya and so on so forth. Irony was that naubajiya may be so late that it should ideally be called Ekbajiya or so but people would follow the right sequence and time attached to the name had not much significance and they would continue their sequence of trains to follow!
The speed of the train would be extremely slow. Train to the Barauni used to be express train and would be much better and train’s speed would also be in the bearable range of human beings. But the speed of the train on the small track used to be unbearable.
Window seat: A daring act yet prized one
Back in those days the trains used to be steam locomotive and the air would be full of un-burnt coal particles and ashes. So seating on the window side had its own problems as invariably these dusts would get in the eyes and make one cry. Seating on window side had the biggest disadvantage in terms of spits by people who chew tobacco. The flying missile or splinters might attack the lesser mortals who dare seating close to window and expose his body. The train’s interior condition used to be unimaginable. There would always be more people standing than seating and coming inside the train and going out would be a real challenge. So much so that I remember that we used to be pushed from the window of the train (back in those days the windows of train would not have railings like now). We would fall on something or somebody and there used to be series of abuses and shouts and we would be standing helpless and hapless in an unknown territory and surrounded by all strangers intriguing at us. Our biggest worry used to be where Babujee is as he would be the last to get up. I would be very scared to even imagine that if he could not get up. The main problem used to be very brief stoppage on the stations. Getting down from the train was relatively simpler as we would start one or two stations ahead.
Seating on the window seat, I would love watching the beautiful scenes of small villages, creeks, fields, small markets on the side of the track, kids playing cricket or small stations where train would not stop! Each next scene would have its own scripts, themes, acts and fun. One would be so busy and occupied. I used to fight among all three of us and invariably would win the seat. Once I was fighting with all and sat on the window seat. I was very pampered and stubborn and would ask for something which Babujee and Ma would generally accept not out of affection but to avoid the headache, which I might cause during the journey. So I was chewing Paan. It was raining for a while and therefore glass window was closed, so one could still see outside. I wanted to spit out of the window and I opened the window and latched it. The windows during those days would not be as nicely fitted as now and it the latch was not that firmly locked so with few jerks it slipped and the whole window just fell over hurting my small finger. It was a bloody scene. I had my finger completely chomped and squeezed with blood oozing out. It stopped bleeding finally and when I reached home, Bimla Mausi was waiting at the main crossroad to the village with lantern. She took out some kerosene oil and poured on my wound with the belief that it would act as anti-septic! But in spite of that, I never lost my interest for that seat.
But beside that one could focus on the conversation going on inside the train as well. There would be all kind of conversation right from family feud to politics or religious. Political discussion used to be of general interest and every one used to have something to contribute in those discussions. We were not that interested in their topic of discussion but some slang definitely would attract our attention. Ma would be very embarrassed as she would never have liked the kids getting exposed to a vulnerable crowd the one I used to face or exposed to during our journey.
Another problem used to be luggage. Back in those days the steel trunks and big sized leather suitcases covered with cloth and stacked on each other near the entrance would be a normal sight to welcome anyone who was getting up the train. I must say that few generations after that, we are much smarter in the way we travel. I still wonder that why we used to travel with so big trunks? But beside anything else, the biggest advantage the trunks would have in terms of seating. Anywhere, whether waiting in the railway platform for hours and hours or while aboard train, it used to serve as a very convenient seating arrangement. But one could be surprised but during the train journey we used to come across strangest items being sold which in my opinion, one would not even imagine in his rarest or rare dreams being sold on railway platforms. Items like kitchenware, vegetables, decorative pieces, chairs etc. were some of the items, I remember I had seen being sold on the platform, when I was young. May be these items were from cottage industry and due to lack of the proper outlets the local artisans must be trying to sell in this way. Whatever may be the reason for selling but they used to do quite a good business. There always used to be room for bargain and Babujee would keep on bargaining to the end and buy some of those items. It would now become extra luggage and that too loose. If we had not enough problems with the luggage, Babujee added these additional items to our worries.
The train journey used to be a real exposure to the world where we were to enter in future. I used to be scared at times to see some of the people who used to be very harsh, ill mannered and very selfish. I then used to feel very protected and secured with Babujee. I must say that I would look to Babujee whenever I would be very scared with any such encounters with the people. Each railway station on our way to Mohammedpur used to look more or less like a village with slightly urban touch in close vicinity of the railway station. Moment the train would start and the village at its fullest were exposed to the eyes. Many hands of small kids would wave to many unknown commuters everyday and many old farmers would not even to bother to see to the train. We would encounter numerous beggars, spiritual people in bhagwa dress and so many hawkers. Many of those hawkers used to be as young as of my age. I used to feel for them. I would question to myself, what life they had, where they lived, how about their parents and so on so forth. We were very religious minded kids and whenever any temple would come during the journey, we all will fold our hands and bow our head. If one of us missed any, the other would show through window.
Train journey had another advantage in terms of buying magazines and comics. We would buy magazines like Nandan, Lotpot, Madhu Muskan, Paraag, Baal Bharti etc. and sometimes with great reluctance we would also manage Indrajaal Comics, which were mainly for Vetal (Phantom), Mandrake, Garth or our favorite Bahadur. The best part of reading some of these comics was that some of the special tricks or magic spells the characters were capable of doing in those comics were not known to all of us (more you read, more you know kind of effect). We would refer to each other and discuss how was some trick possible and one of us would settle that by saying that yes, it was possible in one of the episodes that he had read and likewise! It used to be a great fun!
Bridge on Kamala River
Once we reached the Mohammedpur station, there would always be someone waiting for us. We would then walk over the Railway Bridge to cross the Kamala River, and that was a very scary part as the entire bridge has many gaps all over and one could see the portion of river down from the gaps. The bridge was a railway bridge and was not meant for the pedestrians but villagers had no choice but cross the bride. People would just watch the signal and accordingly use the bridge, the train speed would not be that great and one could manage crossing the bridge even after the train was in the visible range, but it was a risky affair. I remember once we were returning from Hariharpur and Manoj was way ahead of us. He went over the bridge and meanwhile a goods train came. He was not with anyone but alone and we all thought that something unfortunate will happen now. But he was lucky and smart too in managing a platform meant for people to wait when train was on the bridge. It was a very narrow escape for him and lucky too. The train being so long, it was not clear where he was but we all were much relieved once the train left the bridge and Manoj re-surfaced! Ma was very anxious and she was shouting at all of us and asked us to be together.
Crossing the bridge was very awful experience for me. Although one would be very careful walking on that but still the fear of putting the feet on one of those gaps would always generate lots of fear in one’s mind!
Whenever we would be expected to come at the station there would be people waiting for us. One of them used to be Ramdharia. He was dark black with very big white eyes. He was a strong man and would take both of us on his shoulders and also take luggage on his head to carry all the way to our home. He would always be smiling and that time I did not know how much I will miss him in later days. He was a very nice person and would always be cheering us up. After crossing the river there used to be a long walk between the fields. The aisles made between the fields would be the paths. Ramdharia would guide us and we all would just follow him in the dark evening or sometimes night. As soon as we crossed Bauara Pokher, we would start feeling the closeness to the house. There would at times body being cremated at the bank of Bauara Pokher and that used to scare us a lot. We used to be very much afraid of ghosts and all the similar stories. We invariably would not speak or shout near that place as I had a fear that may be that will prompt ghosts to come to me!
The old Banyan Tree : Bhairo Baba
Once we reached the main crossing for Hariharpur, it would be a very short distance to cover. There was a big Banyan tree which people used to worship and was called Bhairo Baba. The tree was very close to Dalan (a place little away from the main house). Dalan was a very interesting place, there were few small huts for cattle and in addition, it had enough space to accommodate people for talking or meeting each other. There used to be couple of chawkees (a very simple form of bed).
Back in those days village life was very much alive and it had a complete system in working. People used to be heavily dependent on agriculture and they used to live in the village. Life was simple, people would be very much approachable and would meet with each other every so often. People helped each other and overall it used to be a very family kind of feeling of the entire village. It was not uncommon for people to spend the whole day talking to each other. People would either be going to Darbhanga, or places related to in-laws of himself, daughter, son, sister etc. to attend some rituals. Most of the people were clean shaved as it is customary to shave the head if someone close dies. The village being so close knit and deaths being not uncommon, people would have their head shaved before it would reach the normal length. The common people’s dress used to be mostly dhoti and kurta. Chhah (tea) and Tamakul or Khaini (tobacco for chewing) were always welcome and cricket match used to be the passion of people. Married women would always cover their head while crossing the gatherings of people, normally the term for that was ghogh tananai. The females would also stop by to talk to other females but they would invariably be pulled inside the “aangan“. While males would be always be moving around the village, the females would usually visit each other in the afternoon. Invariably one house or other would have marriage, upnayan sanskar or mundan sanskar. These occasions have so many rituals attached and all to be completed by the females that afternoon session would always be busy for them by visiting any of those houses where some function was taking place. But people were always very concerned and curious about activities in each other’s house. If we had arrived, many of them would just come to talk to us. There used to be a different kind of warmth and affection, indeed nowhere else one could find that ever!
The Bhairo Baba had a great significance and everyone would fold their hands and bow down to the tree while crossing it. There was a big keertan once while seating under that tree and in the evenings there were few possession from that place to the entire village and it came back again. We had participated in that and I must say that it was quite an experience!
Nani and her affection
Whenever we visited Hariharpur, Nanaji and Nani would always be there before us. We would have a very grand welcome by Nani and we would start touching the feet of all the elders. First we would go to the Bhagwati Ghar, each house in villages have one such room, sometimes combined with kitchen, where ancestral God’s statue or image would always be there and we all would worship that. Then Doodh Baba and his family members would meet us and we would have so much to talk to each other. Just beside the house, there is a big pond. If it was a cloudy or rainy day all the frogs would be restless and the whole time their noise would make one feel irritated. The long leaves of banana tree just beside the pond would also make some kind of flapper noise whenever there would be a string breeze. Nani would whisk us away to the kitchen and feed us with some of the nicest and most delicious food, I have ever eaten. We used to be very tired and wherever we found places, we would just fall down and start sleeping.
Next day morning used to be very exciting. We would come in contact with many local kids and they would be just standing and watching us. Wherever we would go, they would also follow us. There was a hand pump just outside the house. It was installed and maintained by Nanaji. Since morning one could hear the sound of operating the pump with the hands. All the people were dependant on the water and solkan women would fetch water from that in surahee (pot made of baked solid and nicely decorated). They would clean and then fill the water in that. The whole process was very interesting. The way they cleaned the pot and then fill the water and lift that on head and walk to the houses, it used to be well in sync and with perfection. If anyone from our family came to the Kal (that is how Nanaji used to call the hand pump), others would not only pave the way for us but also help in filling the water in our bucket. It used to be a bit embarrassing but everyone used to take bath also there! In the morning time, may be since 5:00 AM, that place would be extremely busy until almost 10:00 AM. There was a well beside that hand pump but that was not used. There were many frogs in that and we would enjoy watching our image in the dirty water of the well and echoing our voice in that dark well. The water from the hand pump used to collect in a small tank and that would have underground pipe to take it all the way out to the end near dabra(a pond which was of no use but it existed for whatever reason) just beside the Dalan.
Nani’s kitchen : Chulha Ghar
Once we took bath, we had many activities lined up. Either we would go to Gachhee or to the fields to see the Dhaan Kataai or likes. Nani would always feed us with lots of Dahee or Khoya. The kitchen used to be a small hut attached to the main house. If one was not careful, chances were there to get hurt with the narrow and very short entrance to the kitchen. Even inside there would be Dahee (curd) or Malai (cream) in a pot-hanging overhead, to avoid it from the cats who could not reach to it. There was no stove when I was young, later on Nanaji had purchased gas stove and replacing the empty gas tanks with the refilled gas tanks from Darbhanga used to be a full day activity. But the chulha with jaran (wood burning in it) had its own fun. The taste of food cooked over that kind of chulha had a different taste altogether! I will never forget the way milk was boiled in a black kadahi (big deep pan). The term for boiling the milk was auntna. There used to be a big wooden spoon, which would be used for stirring the milk again and again until it became very thick. Then it would be ready to be poured in matkuri (the earth pot in which curd used to be set). What I still remember vividly was Nani’s special kind of sound spelt each time she would put the culture in the milk and stir, it used to be chha chha chha….! I do not know why she would do that but that could have been one essential step for preparing the dahi, so to say! Everyday she would take out the chhalee (cream) from dahi and would get collected in a separate vessel and eventually she would heat them up to extract desi ghee (ghyu..as Nani would tell!). Dahi and Chura used to be our breakfast and till date I am yet to eat as good breakfast as I ate while seating in that small kitchen! May be it had lots and lots of love and affection mixed from Nani and that used to make it even more delicious! I enjoyed cooking so much that I would spend hours and hours there with Nani. There used to be a lady called Mahagi, she was an integral part of kitchen. She was even elder to Nani and at times she would even scold Nani. But they were kind of inseparable! Mahagi used to wait for Nani’s arrival to the village, which would be at least once a year or more and when she would reach there, she could not do anything without her. She was like another Nani for us. We used to like her face a lot, she did not have a single tooth left and her cheeks would just look like hollow! That would even be more prominent when she would take deep puff of her bidi (small cigarette made of leaves). She was very energetic and I redeemer that once Mahagi and I were asked to visit Darbhanga to deliver some special sweets and items for Mama and Mami. We first went to Mohammedpur to catch the train but we came to know that the train was very late and so we decided to walk. She insisted that I should go back but I continued with her. It was a very long walk. We walked almost for 3-4 hours. We took one tractor ride also in between if I remember well but it was walking all the way! I guess Mahagi returned the next day and I stayed for few more days. I had no plan to stay overnight so did not carry any clothes. I remember when I was trying to ride Mama’s motorcycle, I tore my black trouser and it was very embarrassing moment for me. He then took me to a shop and bought some of the best clothes I ever had till then in my life. I was very surprised to see the lavishness and better quality of lifestyle Mama and his in-laws had. We were brought up in a very modest way. May be that is why we had thirst for almost everything as when we were growing up which may be acted as a strong driving force.
Ajanta used to be our closest friend at Hariharpur, though she was couple of years older to me but she was mother’s cousin in relation. She would take us to various places. We used to go together in the morning to pick flowers for the Puja. We would go to Pokhar for bath and swimming, which I did not know at all. The best was to go to Kansaar for Bhuja. She would take some grains and it used to be bartering system for Laai or Bhuja. The Kansaar used to be at the end of the village and she used to have a clay pot with lots of sand in it over a stove fired by logs. She would put rice or corn and it would start popping up in the heated sand. Then she would take the whole popped up corn, rice or badaams together with sand and then separate it with a fine chalni (sieve). We would then come back to aangan and Ajanta would then cut fine onions and put some masaala from pickles. It used to taste ultimate.
Durga Sthan
Hariharpur used to be a very lively village back in those days. It has a great place called Durga Sthan. It is a little farther from home and is more on way to another village called Malpatti. Durga Sthan, I was told was all established by youths of village. There was a time when there were some very dynamic youths, mainly Arun Mama, Bilat Nana, Manikant Nana and others whom I do not know about. They all were brilliant students and thought different about the village life and established a kind of community centre. They collected resources from everyone and built a very good Durga Mandir where every year a grand Durga Puja is celebrated with lots of fan and fare. There used to be a library as well at Durga Sthan. They also had cricket and soccer teams and there was a field just adjacent to that where we used to have cricket matches in the evenings. I was not that great player in my childhood and would mostly watch the games but sometimes when they were short of players, they would include me as well. Manoj used to be a flamboyant player in all sports and he would play a lot. In fact there used to be tournaments as well and he sometimes played great in those matches. Once he had been to a village somewhere close to Darbhanga to play in a tournament as well. There was a dedicated person called Guruji. He was a very strange character. He was much older to be called a youth but still was a very energetic person and used to be very keen to keep the youths of village together. He was unquestionably the captain of the team. Though he was not a great player but he had tremendous organizing skills. He would be very much in contact with youths of the village, no matter which caste or creed they belonged to. It is very disappointing to note that in later years there was a Mandal commission which was implemented by Indian government for amendment in the Indian constitution to give more benefits to the backward caste. Apparently the report had suggested that backward caste and Dalits were always kept away by the so-called forward caste. Whether country was indeed divided on caste lines before the implementation of the report or not, it definitely divided the whole country on caste lines afterwards. But in Hariharpur, I remember that the team used to have players from all castes and they would play as a team with players from forward caste, Hariharpur is mainly a Brahmin dominated village. I could not comprehend that theory given by Mandal commission whenever I visualized my experience and facts seen during the childhood days. But the politicians have ulterior motives.
Guruji as he was called by everyone, I never came to know about his real name, was already married and had kids too. But he was devoted for a cause , unfortunately that did not pay him anything. Eventually, I was told that he had very poor health and he took the wrong course of life and was mostly on high with Bhang and drinks and I do not know much about him now. But when I was young, he used to be a person who would generate lots of enthusiasm in all of us. He used to be the central figure in the village activities.
Nanaji used to enjoy talking to people very much. He had constructed a big verandah outside his house and there used to be a good seating arrangement. Invariably people would be crossing that place as either people would be going to Darbhanga or coming from somewhere. Nanaji was very fond of listening to the transistor and if no one around he would listen to the music or news. That place was my favourite one. As Ma would ask me to go elsewhere as we were not allowed to seat with elders but Hariharpur being such a place that Ma would also be busy somewhere and I would continue to seat there! Later on Ma would be very upset with me and say -” Gapp pibo me budd maja aboi chhau!” (You enjoy a lot to “drink” the talks!) There was a house just across the road opposite the verandah and his name was Ramekbal. He was handicapped as his one leg had some problem and he could not fold it as a result difficulty in walking and seating as well. There was a very interesting story on how he became handicapped. We were told that during English Raj time there used to be some orchards owned by government. Ramekbal was a child and he like others went up some mango trees and was busy plucking mangos and soon police came there. Other kids jumped and ran and he was on a branch, which was at a very good height, and from where he could not dare jumping. Eventually out of fear he did jump and that broke his leg and so was the story. He had a small family and he used to make his living by selling dairy to people in the village. He was a very nice and gentleperson and would talk to all of us. Since that verandah was just opposite to his small hut for cattle, he would sleep mostly on that verandah when no one was in Hariharpur (major part of the year no one would be living there anyway!). So he would come and seat down on the floor invariably and talk to us.
There were many other people who would make it to that verandah once a day. Some of them were Taracharan Babu, Pooran Mama, Fekan Mama, Balbodh Jha and others. Surprisingly Nanaji was equally popular among younger generation as well. He had decided long time back to settle down in Hariharpur once he was retired from his service at Jamshedpur. Eventually he did go and settle down there. He had a desire to start a college in Hariharpur and he started working hard for that but he had to deal mostly with youths and some of them did not like him. He had a very amicable personality and he did make great moves towards starting a college but once there was a conflict between groups because of the politics for getting the contacts regarding construction of college buildings and that resulted in firing in the village. A splinter stuck Nani’s head as she was peeping out of the door to see what was going on. Nani was rushed to Darbhanga and miraculously she survived. Ever since that, Nanaji withdrew himself from all such activities and he started living a completely isolated life. It was a sad end to his great dream but that is what unfortunately the reality. The people in village had changed a lot and it was no more the same place as it used to be 25-30 years back. Last when I visited Hariharpur (and perhaps that would be my last visit as well!) in year 1998, it bore a different look. People were more isolated and the overall environment did not have the same enthusiasm and friendliness. People did not even care and talked to us. It was a completely different Hariharpur what I used to see. I believe the harsh realities of life and TV in village has brought a lot of change and no one now wants to live in village.
Fekan Mama used to be a very interesting character. He was a cook in the Indian army and had traveled all over India with the troop. He was physically a very strong personality and had a very thick and long mustache. He would brag a lot about army and the places he had visited. People used to love to hear his long lectures. But we were kids that time and he would call us and talk in a very military ishtyle. Once he grouped all the kids together and we did a cleaning up job of the streets from our home to the Bhairo Baba. There were all kind of junks and he made us work just in the military style. There were many other interesting people who would flock to that verandah once a day and kind of entertain us! There were two brothers called Purnianand and Sarojanand from a so-called rich family of the village. They would have a nice home just beside the pond and that was very much visible. But in spite of all these we would hear many stories about them, which were not very sober. Once they were accused of stealing mangos from someone’s orchard, would never know if those accusations were true or not. In the same extended family there was one Bhagnarayan. His son Anil. Anil used to be very active and was very friendly with us. However, they were little reserved and hardly would come and talk to anyone. They believed in a different kind of lifestyle, perhaps.
Of all the people our next door neighbours were the most interesting ones. There used to be a person called Kulesh and his brother Mahesh. Kulesh, I was told that was brilliant in studies but somehow he got derailed and could never recover in his career path. He was little lost kind of character and sometime would talk to us and most of the times he would just ignore everyone and go straight to his home. Mahesh was a genius and he remembered almost entire career record of great cricketer Sunil Gavaskar(Mahesh and Nanaji would say Gabhaskar). He had amazing memory power. Unfortunately later on I came to know that he died leaving behind a young family. Mahesh’s mother was an old widow and was completely insane. Invariably one would hear a loud altercation between the old lady and some other people in home and she would almost run out of the home and start abusing and use the filthiest of language and come all the way near verandah. She would threaten to leave the home forever. Nanaji had see enough of her and he would get disturbed in the middle of his conversation, so every time she would come close to verandah Nanaji would almost yell at her and say - ” Ekdam nikal jau gaam sa, tabah kae ka rakhne ahee e sankal maugee!” (At once leave the village, you insane woman has made our lives miserable!) Perhaps he had yelled at her so many times that moment she would come close to verandah, she would be quiet and go farther and then start shouting again. Nanaji was very critical on many such ills of the society back then. Often one would see a scene where married daughters having kids, when leaving the village would be crying as if has been leaving for the first time! Nanaji would shout at them from verandah - “Eeh lajo nahi hoyee chhain enka, du du haath ke nankirwa lene kain rahal chhaith, bailo ekra sab ke gaam sa…!” (Shame on you that even after having grown up kids you are crying, someone throw them out from this village!). Sometimes it used to be extremely hilarious the way Nanaji would yell at people!
Shyama Chor
How could I miss a very special character of Hariharpur called Shyama Chor? There was a tragic story attached to this poor fellow. Shyama was a normal guy when he was young. He had inherited good property from his forefathers like most of the other grihasths of the village. However, it is told that some of the traitors in the village made him to drink a lot and in that condition got his thumb impression to get the lands transferred to their names. Many said that he had become addicted and that is why sold everything for whatever prices. No one would ever come to know about the true story. But the fact of the matter was that some people had usurped everything. He had virtually become homeless and could not take the shock and went insane too. In that mental situation he perhaps started the worst -stealing in the night. Very soon people in the village came to know about him as he was not that swift and smart in stealing. Many had felt bad about his poor condition and also him being one of them (he was from a good Brahmin family), they forgave all his crimes. But they told him to go to everyone’s home in the morning and ask for the food and survive with that. He also found this arrangement to be OK. So now he had a big steel plate in his hand and he would come to everyone’s doorstep and ask for the food very authoritatively.
I had never seen a thief in person before. Everyday morning I would wait for his arrival. To me he looked a very sober and quite guy. He used to wear a very dirty dhoti and shirts of any size, perhaps mostly donated by someone. He would have half black and white beard and was almost bald. His eyes were very deep and open and would scare someone if he watched him. In his deep-throated voice he would shout almost - “Lau e kakee, bhukh lagal oichh!” Nani would not be ready so she would say -”Ghuer ka aabey akhan nahi bhel aichh!” And he would not mind whatever is given to him, he would finish everything right there! We would ask him many questions as how he used to scale the walls and steal and so on so forth. He would never reply and just stare. We would be terrified. But deep inside me I used to feel sorry for him.
Doodh Baba
Nanaji and Nani as Ramsundar called Nanaji’s younger brother. But I gave him a new name- Doodh Baba. The story goes this way that when I was young, I used to love milk a lot. I would call everything as Duddhu if I liked it, kind of synonym for good in my vocabulary. Everyone knew my weakness. Ma told me that even if I was bleeding when I would get hurt, if I was offered milk, I used to smile! When I used to be in Hariharpur, Doodh Baba would bring a glass of fresh milk, milked right in home from his cattle. I used to drink in one breath and would be so happy that I started calling him Dudhhu Baba and later on Doodh Baba!
I remember those days when he would take us to Dalaan and expose us to his own world. He used to live mostly there and he had many interesting things to show to us. Right from buffaloes, cows, oxen, keut, dhekee and many more such interesting things. I will attempt to explain these terms a little later. He would often take us in the evenings when it used to be little darker. Sometimes we would sleep there or in the evenings we would be asked to study something from our course materials as Ma was very particular about our academic part as well.
With darkness looming all over and a small lantern showing very little light at Dalan we would seat down on chowkee and study. Jyotakhee Baba’s house was very close and there used to be a boy there called Vachaspati who would study a lot in the evenings seating on a chowkee there which was close to us. Jyotakhee Baba had left side of his body paralyzed and Pooran Mama used to take his care so much that it could be termed as and example of ultimate affection and a care a son could have for his father. We were told that Jyotakhee Baba had studied at Kashi and he was very knowledgeable and calm and cool. He was eldest in Nanaji’s Bhaiyaree (among brothers of his generation). Whenever we would come to Hariharpur, after Dalan we would have a brief stoppage at Jyotakhee Baba’s chowkee as he would be seating most of the times on a chowkee and watching people coming and going. We would touch his feet and get his blessings and only then move to our home.
We would hardly study there as there were so many attractions and our child curiosity would dominate over all other things and we would just start moving around and see the things. But Then we would have a small bonfire called ghoor, if it was a wintertime. We all would seat closely near the ghoor and warm us up. What used to be the most interesting part were Doodh Baba’s stories. His big round eyes and variation in voice would bring life in the stories. We would be scared a lot. And then in the wilderness of night with fresh breeze blowing the leaves of big Banyan tree, which was called Bhairo Baba, a very beautiful sound would fill the atmosphere. But after hearing the stories related to lions or ghosts we would hear only what used to scare us even from Bhairo Baba! We would somehow make it to our home and eat our meal in the kitchen and go for sleep.
Missing links : Recollect the old times through farming et al
Let me explain some of the instruments, which I mentioned earlier now. First of all I am not too sure whether I am able to recollect their names correctly or not. But let me capture them here anyway and I will verify them with someone more knowledgeable later on and should there be a need to update them, I will do that here. Keut that used to be a specially hollowed log with one end closed and the other end as an open channel. The purpose of that was for watering the fields. The way that instrument was used must have been a indigenous scientific innovation.
The keut used to be hanged by strong ropes in the middle so that closed end would lower to a deep-water logged area. The other end had a rope to support by hand and then it would be lowered down to get the water filled in the big hollow closed end. With the hand rope it would be then pulled down. When it will be further down, then other end would be pressed by leg to get the water released in the channel made all the way from that end to the fields. This was the way the fields would be watered once in a while. The waterlogged area would be purposely made a deep hollow low land so that water could be stored there as a reservoir.
Dhekee used to be an arrangement for separating the brown hull from the un-hulled rice. There used to be a long heavy round log hinged on a fulcrum in the middle. It used to have its one end flattened for legs to press and the other end used to have a shaft mounted. This shaft would go into a hole in the floor. At the tip of the shaft a round-headed component was fitted which would come down in the hole and that would result in pounding the unhulled dried rice. The rice produced would be ready for cooking. One person would use the other end to press it up and down resulting in pounding and the other person would be seating close to the hole and from time to time take out the rice and brown hulls(bhusa or choker a good meal for cows and buffaloes). That person had to be very cautious as if there was any mistiming it could have resulted in chomping the fingers!
With so much of modernization, those instruments lived its life I guess. But I will always remember the earlier version of the modern mechanical processes, which alienates people from the reality so much. Hursh and Yash were insisting to go to a farm once and when I saw the modern process of agricultural farming here, I knew very well that they would never believe about what all I have mentioned here. How could they understand what dauna used to be? Let me recollect the whole process of rice processing right from beginning. I had seen all these processes so closely that I can not let is just get buried inside me like that. I would like to recollect each and every moment of it.
Rice Crop : A summary of complete process
Most of the times I visited Hariharpur during harvesting season but if I remember well couple of times I did visit during the preparation of paddy and plantation as well. During those days we used to have jaun banihars (kind of bonded labours) working for us. That was a tradition, which when now I look back was traditional but kind of exploitation of some lower caste families. The way the jaun banihars used to work was long running family of a dalit attached to the family of each Brahmin family. The day a son was born in Brahmin family, one of the sons of the designated Dalit family would also used to be “assigned” to the boy in Brahmin family for the rest of life. What it meant was that the designated person became an asset for him and he would assign work to him for the rest of life. Whether working in the field or repairing the house, he needed to be present everyday at Grihasth’s (landlord’s) home. Even on occasions like marriage, Upnayan sanskar or any such special gatherings at home they had to show up and work at his master’s house. It used to be a pathetic situation for them as they and their family were whole and sole dependent on Grihasth. There was no cash payment for them but they used to get a portion of rice or wheat produced as their earnings for the year. Also, everyday they used to get lunch from Grihasth’s family. When they used to work at filed, one of the kids from Grihasth’s family would go and deliver bain (the lunch) to them. The bain used to be mainly three or four makai ke rota with salt, green chili and few drops of mustard oil with a lota of water. Sometimes they would also get roasted red pepper. Consistently the same food must have been a monotonous for them but that is what they were given. I remember Ma was very kind hearted and when we would visit village she would give some additional stuff too. My uncles used to get very upset saying that - “Aha aadat bigaid debai, aagu hamra sa ete paar nahi hoit” (You will spoil them, in future I would not be able to cope up with so much).
Now in all fairness the grihasth’s situation was also not better. The Brahmins also had no cash crops and as a whole the life in village used to be very much or bartering system. I remember that kunjarinis (female vegetable sellers) used to come to the aangans (courtyard of house) and they would sell the vegetables in exchange to rice or wheat in a certain ratio. I have even seen kerosene oil and other such items being purchased on bartering system.
So, with no access to cash it was very unlikely for them to pay the jaun banihars in cash. Though it may sound as if the jaun banihars were kind of “slaves”, in reality hardly anyone had any choice than continue to live in the village and do what for years their forefathers had been doing. In simple words that arrangement “worked” for both side back in those days. It is now debatable that whether they continued under any pressure or it was just because there was no exposure to either side. But I remember that back in those days the so-called jaun banihars were not revolting at all and were very submissive. In fact they could have gone to the cities for work on cash but it seems that they must have figured out that whatever arrangement they had, that could have been a better one and so they very quite satisfied. What I definitely did not like was the communication with them and keeping them always in low esteem. But even till date in any manufacturing plant in India the similar treatment to workers or labours could be seen. However in last 20 odd years the flood gate opened for these labours and they started visiting Haryana and Punjab and they started getting cash as wages. The wages are also good and exposure to cities has definitely opened up their minds and all these jaun banihar concept has almost come to an extinct. It is so pathetic to see now that lands are barren now and no one is to cultivate anything. Even grihasths have started moving to cities now as it is indeed very tough and unpredictable to rely on agriculture alone.
I remember whenever any of these jaun banihars revolted, the grihasths also made their life miserable by not calling them again. There was a case of Ramrup in Hariharpur who would be very arrogant with Nanaji and he abandoned him. After few times when he was not called by anyone he almost had broken down and had come to ask for forgiveness. The bottom line was that they were dependent on each other and were an integral part of the whole agricultural process. The grihasths also did not have an easy life. They had to move around all the fields on foot and some of them were far from village, arrange for cash to purchase fertilizer and supervise overall all the activities. They would also be working whole day in and around villages.
Well let me now explain the process in brief. In the beginning jaun banihars used to take the oxen and pulled a harrow through the rice field or paddy. The harrow used to level the soil surface and make a smooth bed for rice seedlings to be planted.
After the preparation of the field the seedlings were planted one at a time, spacing them a hand span apart. (A hand span is the distance from the thumb to little finger when the fingers are spread apart). A few days later, a man will walk through the fields casting handfuls of fertilizer(mainly from cow dunk called gobars) to cover the fields.
Finally when rice plants grew and with watering them periodically using arrangements like keut or other means eventually the crop would be ready for harvesting. During the Dhankataai (harvesting) the entire family of jaun banihars would participate. Some people from Mushar community also used to join. As the harvesting continued, the members from Mushar community would be smart enough to find the mouse holes where lots and lots of rice would be buried. They were specialized in finding them. It was told to me that they would catch the mice as well and eat them. The women and children from jaun banihars’ family used to hold a small knife (called hansua) in their hands. Each stalk were cut individually and transferred to their left hand. When enough had been cut to make a small bundle, it used to be stacked for later threshing to separate the straw, consisting of the plant and stems, from the grain. The bundles were transferred by bullock cart and then in dalaan it would be stacked. After this for few days they were spread out and then dried.
This used to be time for dauna. When the bundles were dried completely they were spread out within a circle within which “teams” of 2 to 3 bulls were driven in tight circles over it, the hooves stamping out the grains. Most of the cows or bulls used to wear muzzles to prevent them from gobbling up the work intensive crop.
After this the grains were separated from straws by shaking on the ground. After this grains were collected using a special kind of broom for this purpose. Shaking the rice back and forth on a flat bamboo tray called supa winnowed the rice grains. That used to separate the grain from the chaff and dust, which were collected at the end of the supa. The supa was then tossed to remove those materials. It was held high and gently tipped down, making the heavier grain fall on a mat, while the chaff were blown away by the wind. The straw-like hull also used to blow away. That scene used to be very good as they would wait for a good breeze to blow and we would watch it so enthusiastically.
The rice would now be packed in bora (jute bags) and transferred to home. There used to be bataiya (division) now between grihasth and jaun banihars. Sometimes they were sold also to some external businessmen. There used to be a big size tarazoo (weight measuring instrument) in home. The weight blocks were mainly some stones and normally it would be called ser (term for Kilograms). They would make one side of the tarazoo equivalent to five ser or so and keep it intact. Now on they would start emptying one side and start weighing the grains each time in terms of five sers. This would make the process faster. What I used to enjoy was the counting method. Each time they dropped one side on a pile they would count as ekahi ram, duahee ram, teenahi ram and so on. While they were weighing next one they would constantly repeat the last count as teenahi ram, teenahi ram, and teenahi ram until next one was also dropped on the pile and so on so forth.
Jaun banihars used to trust their grihasths so much that they would leave their portion in grihasth’s aangan and would transfer some other day. The reason was that they had many more work left to be completed before they could go home. The portion of grihasth’s rice would then be transferred in kothees (home made big containers). It was customary to eat the old rice and so it followed FIFO (First In First Out) warehouse method as the newer rice would be poured from top and the old rice would be taken out from the bottom hole.
There was another interesting activity of chuda kutnai. Women would pound the boiled unhulled, dried rice with a moosal made of log from a seesam tree (as a pestle) in a wooden bowl (mortar) called okhail mostly made of mango log. That used to wear off the brown hull and produce flat form of rice called chuda, which was ready to be eaten with dahi (curd). Maithils are known for Dahi Chuda (and not chuda dahi) The order of use of the item defines as which item has prominence, obviously Maithil brahmin liked dahi more than chuda. So much so that I have been told that some of them have eaten up to 20 kilos of dahi in one seating!
Gachhee
Sometimes I wish that I had a camcorder with me when I was a child. There were so many great moments which I miss now, at least recordings of those could have given me some solace and let me go back in times. But God has blessed us with even more powerful media and that is our mind. All those moments are captured in my memories and whenever I seat back to recollect my old days down the memory lane, deluge of memories just starts flooding my mind. My dilemma is that which ones of these memories to pick and which ones I should just ignore, because they are so closely entangled with each other. I try to segregate as much as possible but at times it becomes a dilemma for me as how to address this and that is why I start with something and it starts drifting away and it turns out to be a saga! I started this blog to write more about my childhood memories and Hariharpur came first to my mind and when I started writing about Hariharpur, it seems I could go on writing for months as there are so much to write about! When I think of my days spent in Hariharpur, Gachhee is one place that occupies a special place in my memories.
The mango orchards are generally called Aam Gachhee or just Gachhee in short. Gachhees are very common in Mithila region where my ancestral roots are in. Nanaji had one of the best Gachhees in Hariharpur. The mango trees are not very tall and normally they start bearing the fruits in 2-3 years. The branches of mango trees are not very strong and the leaves are very dense. Some of the old trees were very big. But I was told that Nanaji had also deep interest in mango and so he had taken interest in planting some of the nicest varieties of mango trees in that gachhee. Over the years they had started bearing the fruits and we would visit during peak summer time to enjoy the mangos.
There were mango orchards belonging to many people all in-group together. It used to be an experience to reach there. It felt like walking on a trail in a forest. The gachhee, which belonged to Nanaji, was at one extreme end almost close to Bauara Pokher. We would start walking and continue through so many other gachhees. There were some other trees as well together with mango trees. During the walk to the gachhee one could see many birds, butterflies, bugs, squirrels and at times some other animals as well. I had seen some snakes as well at times, which I am most frightened with till date. The strong breeze inside the orchard would sound very different. And on a cloudy day there would be some storm and mangos would start falling. One could hear the sound very distinctly as if something heavy falling on a soft soil. On a sunny day it would be shadow all over inside the gachhee but there would be some sun filtering in and whenever there was a breeze some leaves will let sun come in and that had its own dramatic effect inside the gachhee. The temperature inside the gachhee used to be excellent. Even on a hot and humid day the condition inside a gachhee would be very comfortable. There used to be a very strong aura inside the gachhee and that used to have a drowsy effect and I believe that it could make a person fall sleep.
We used to have machan build inside the gachhee. Machaan use to be made of bamboo and it had a very simple design. Sleeping on Machaan was one of the best experiences of my life. When I used to lie down on the Machaan I would have mixture of many elements of nature! I could hear the sound of long mango leaves fighting with the breeze, cuckoo’s shriek yet sweet coo coo! Many other birds chirping sound would make the whole environment so soothing. The light would be filtering out through the mango trees as the sun and shade would always be playing with each other on us. At times some of the mangos would fall on the soft damp soil under the trees and an absorbing sound like dubb would attract the kids to go and collect the mango in a bag. These mangos were used for making chutney in home. The squirrels would often come down from the trees and pick their stuff and again go up. Some woodpeckers would be busy in their constant efforts. If one was observant enough he could see the red ants moving in sequence all the way up in the trees. Under the mango trees there used to be a special kind of soft and long grasses. The butterflies would be in abundance moving around on those grasses. At times ghaskatnee would come in pair or alone and would be busy in cutting the grass and keeping in a bag for their cattle. I was told that they were mostly Muslim girls and they mostly stayed far from our village. At times I used to get a bit afraid to see them suddenly in the gachhee. As they would surface all of sudden before my eyes since they were so quiet in their movements and their dress used to be covered with a head scarf so they used to look much different from normal females in the village. That also used to make me feel a little shocked if seen all of sudden! At times some kids riding the buffaloes would also come close to gachhee. The buffaloes grazing the grass had a distinct sound as at the end one could hear the sound of uprooting the grasses. Also sometimes these buffaloes had a bell hanging in their necks and that would sound very distinctly when they moved around. There used to be some tall plants of Tar (palm). One could see some of the pasis going up in a special way by joining their legs together and using a special kind of rope to reach at the top and bring down the tari in a pot hanging at their back. I was told that fresh tari was very good for health but normally that used to be fermented and then it would become a kind of bear, which normally people of lower caste would drink. I could never try the fresh tari ever. There were so many things happening in the wilderness inside the gachhee that one would just forget everything and it used to be a different world altogether. Some of the machaans were made in such a way that it was covered and even if it rained one could still be safe. One could see someone walking through the gachhee with a lota in his or her hand too, either going to or coming back after relieving himself.
I was told that just behind the gachhee dead bodies were cremated on the banks of Bauara Pokher. That used to frighten me a lot. To add to my fear further, I had seen some ashes in the adjacent gachhee and we were told that some one very old in the village had died recently and his dead body was cremated there. I never wanted to stay in the late evenings and always wanted to go back before the sunset. Anyway in the evenings the gachhee was not a good place to stay on as people started coming for relieving themselves since back in those days no one used to have a toilet in their home.
Varieties of Mango
Gachhee had many varieties of tree. Let me see if I could recall the names of the trees. From one end if started one would see Kishunbhog. This variety had a specialty of being very sweet even when it was not ripe. The skin of this variety used to be very thin. This variety used to be the first to taiyar (ready). We would eat this mango right there whenever it fell during the stormy weather. The next few trees were of Kalkatiya. This was one of the most tasteless and bulky mango varieties. The irony was that in spite of this being so tasteless not only the sizes were big but also it used to be in abundance. I can not remember having enjoyed this variety ever. Then there was another variety called Bombaiya. This variety was a very tasty one. It had a pungent taste with sweetness. There was a very good variety called Gulab Khas. We were told that this was considered as king of mangoes. I am not sure about that but it had an amazing taste. However, it used to taste good only when ripe unlike Kishanbhog, which tasted great in any form. The best of all was Malda. We loved this the most and there were quite a few trees of that variety. There was a variety called Jardalu, which was little hot in taste. Sinduriya variety had indeed a very dark red colour on it. Even by look Gulab Khas used to be the best in appearance. If I recall correctly there used to be some more varieties called Seepiya, Khajaulee, Dasahari and Bijju. The Bijju mango trees used to be very huge and it had many small sized mangoes. This tree was mostly unattended and the peculiarity of this used to be that even identical looking mangos of the tree could taste extremely different. It used to be kind of lottery, one could be extremely sweet and tasty and the other could be as sour as one could imagine. The mangos used to be in abundance so much so that during the rainy day people would collect all other mangos and leave this for anyone to pick!
From this gachhee if one could go towards railway line, one could cross the track and there was another gachhee called Kaulam. That was closer to villages Tectair and Pindaruch. In addition to have fun of seeing some steam locomotive crossing a small bridge we used to have fun in that gachhee as well. There were not too many trees there but there used to be a huge Bijju mango tree there. Also there was a Gular’s tree. That tree had very unique kind of flower and fruits but we never ate that. We usually not have too much of fun in that gachhee but we would have more fun in watching the trains going on the track.
Just beside the railway track, there was a very dense orchard not sure whether that belonged to someone or was railway’s property but we would go there to play. There was a huge jamun tree in that orchard and once I and few other boys started playing on the Jamun tree and I ate a lot of Jamun. I went up and up on the tree and once a branch broke but fortunately I somehow held on to another branch. I was so scared that now I did not know how to get down. I had come with Sameer (Sevakji’s son) who was very naughty and Ma would always ask me to not play with him. Sameer had quietly left the scene long before and I was all alone with boys whom I did not know much. Since the boys left there did not know me very well, I was little afraid as what will happen if I could not get down. It was getting darker and I was still on the tree. I started slowly and somehow managed to scale down. I looked up the tree where I was a moment before and I told to myself that never again would I try this kind of misadventure. Although no one was there to complain to Ma about this incident but I had a bigger problem ahead now. My shirt had all over indigo colour from Jamun and also my face and hands had that colour. I did not have anyway to hide that. I do not recall now as what happened when I reached home!
We were so fascinated with the train that invariably we would come close to track and watch it. We sometimes used to keep the coins on the track and see how that used to get elongated once the train wheel would go on that. It used to be hot and we used to have lots of fun with that. At times I would put some gravel also on the track and see how it falls from a distance. The steam engine used to be very dark black and it had very shriek sound. I used to get terrified by watching the steam engine. For some reason I never liked to cross the engine. Sometimes when we got down from the train, we had to come all the way to the end of train and cross the track ahead of engine. I used to get terrified with different kind of sounds coming from that engine, sometimes steam valve would release the steam with shriek sound and also the scene of fire and the driver putting coal in it used to frighten me a lot.
When I reached in high school, I never liked to be treated as a young boy. When we were in grade 9 and 10, we would try to prove that we were self dependent and could do most of the things ourselves. That was the time when we had many physical changes taking place, right from growing beard and mustache to change in voice. Also, I remember that was the time when we would like to spend more time outside home and talk more freely about our feelings with friends. Interference from parents at that age was the last thing we would like. That was the time when I would not like to be dominated by others. We used to be very sensitive on how people talk to whom or us talk about us. When I look back, I wonder as why we reacted to some of the situations the way we did! It may sound funny now but back in those days, that was normal!